![]() I purchased an AF-S 105mm VR earlier this year as my first macro lens. What do you think of this testing? Can you point to other sites with good tests for macro lenses? In all this, 2:1 is an image 2x the subject, 1:2 is an image half the size of the subject. ![]() Ĭ uses MTF50 for "Sharpness", MTF10 for "Resolution", and measures corner performance as "% loss is sharpness vs. I don't want to copy his graphs, but take a look at the 3rd graph on this page. The Olympus 80mm Bellows lens is engineered for a wider range, down by 20% at 1:2.5 and also at 2.2:1. The APO Rodagon D is tightly optimized for 1:1 it's corner resolution is down by 50% at 1:2.5 and also at 2.5:1. My two favorite 1:1 lenses are indeed optimized for 1:1 where they have very good sharpness across the APSC frame. Ditto or a little worse for a very good enlarging lens (Schneider Companion-S 50mm f/2.8). With this lens at 1:1, the APSC corner resolution is down to half the center resolution. The 50mm f/2.8 Micro Nikkor is best at 1:4 or 1:2, so it's great reversed for higher magnification than 1:1. The big performance change when lenses are used outside their design conjugates is in corner performance. He's run real tests using IMATEST and the results are interesting: The site is about lenses for shooting coins. Just now, I've discovered a site () with tests of a number of lenses from 1:4 to 1:1 and beyond. A few lenses are optimal at 1:1 (my favorites: 75mm APO Rodagon D 1:1, Olympus 80mm bellows lens) Thus, they make great macro lenses reversed for say 5:1, but not optimal at 1:1 Enlarging lenses are designed for typical print sizes. Much better than "normal" lenses, but not optimal at 1:1. Macro lenses are best at 1:3 or 1:5, even though they may focus to 1:2 or 1:1. You can focus close with tubes or bellows, but the performance is compromised. Most lenses are designed for normal shooting distances, not macro. Lenses are optimized for a certain range of magnifications (image:subject conjugates) The common wisdom I've accumulated about lenses in this range over the years: ![]() Also for slide copying and digital-camera-as-scanner. I've been especially interested in shooting at around 1:1 for flower center details, insects, etc. Want to sign up for his upcoming photo workshop in Yellowstone? Visit “Winter in Yellowstone Photo Tour” info and schedules.I've been using and reading about macro lenses for years. You can also follow his videos on his YouTube channel. You can also connect with him on Facebook, Twitter, or Google Plus. To see more incredible icescapes, follow David C. We hope these tips, photos, and video inspire you to pack your gear and go on an icy adventure this winter. Tip: When bringing your gear indoors, consider leaving it in the case for a while to slowly warm. Thin glove liners, as well as heavier gloves or mittens. These also have worked great when placed inside my hat. That way, I can pick up something like the frosted leaves with less likelihood of disturbing the frost.Ħ. When working with detail shots, I like having a pair a tweezers in my pack. ![]() If you’re running low on power, go “old school” and turn off the image stabilization and autofocus.ĥ. Switch them out as they reach about half-full status. I also carry this to clean snow off the camera.Ĥ. You do not want to use your breath to blow off a lens or camera eyepiece, as it will usually just fog up, and freeze on or in the lens.ģ. They’re nice, soft, and great for absorbing moisture when cleaning melted snowflakes off your lens.Ģ. Adding to the interest of these shots was the warm backlight of the rising sun.Īlong with the gear I previously mentioned, here is a list of other items I like to pack when I’m shooting ice:ġ. But I was able to isolate a few single pieces. There are a lot of ice chunks on this beach which can take away from a good composition.
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